In search of a good cup of coffee has to wander around the city community. Lure scent - not inspire confidence with infinite shelf syrups, compulsively recommended the guys behind the counter. Attract atmosphere - strange disappoint latte. Cup of black coffee served in almost every institution, but it would be for a drink? Even in such a large city like Moscow, you can not always vouch for its quality. How do you know what is wrong with the coffee and where to drink a really delicious drink?
Admittedly, the situation is not quite so bad. If you wish, you can find good fresh corn roast in specialized online stores, coffee shops. And strong, professional baristas in there. Terribly delighted new coffee machine in the office of the editorial board, we, Anna Kotais and Nastya elephant, found a decent supplier of coffee for himself and his colleagues, but did not stop there. Deciding to study the issue more coffee, we met with the company Double B, which offers a unique format coffee establishments and enjoys sharing his love of drink and amazing knowledge of the beans. And we - with you.
Double B - is a new format for us to brew bar - coffee bar where coffee culture brought to perfectionism, and emerged recently (vulgar) fashion consumption of dubious quality coffee and cakes desyatisloynymi on an industrial scale destroyed a tart flavor and slightly sour. It is in such places people appear bright gastronomic memories.
There are no concepts of "toll", "grande" and "diet muffin", but there is a "coffee kemekse", "aeropress" and "lavender RAF". At the root of Double B is a former managing network "Caffeine" Anna Tsfasman champion and Russian chief barista Olga Melik-Karakozov. Together with them, working coffee guru, including world champion latte-art Kashirtseva Victoria and certified judge Russian coffee championships and world champion coffee with alcohol Anna Serov.
What good are these coffee guru, among others? Or rather to ask - what are they better? Double B - the only company in Russia, which works directly with farmers. About their coffee, they literally know everything: the moment of landing a tree, its appearance, the type of treatment, the location of the farm, the composition of the soil, who and how to collect the grain, how many times it went over like dried as peel and pulp residues. They know how long dried coffee on the patio, how many times a day it overturned.
Packs of coffee Double B are arranged on the basis of a wine label, on which you can find everything - from the geographic location and the type of coffee tree to a method and a processing station. In general, all. Even what you basically never thought about, but now can not help but pay attention to it.
Double B have a serious responsibility - for the upbringing of the coffee culture. The thing is that the consumer is not yet formed, does not know what the right question to ask. Often he can not describe what he did not like, but clearly understands that he can not drink this particular cup of coffee.
Here's what we learned from the detailed story of Anna Tsfasman (thank you!)
On trees and Robusta crema
Coffee - is a berry that grows on a tree. Arabica alone about 200 species of trees. At best, people know that there are Arabica and Robusta, some know that robusta - it's bad. In this knowledge of coffee usually end, and this is above average knowledge. Many people think that robusta need to foam was, even though it is not. The level of knowledge even bar managers sometimes very low.
About the mountains, soil and tomatoes
It is important, where arabica is growing - the higher, the more delicious. At an altitude of less oxygen - berry ripens longer and can absorb more flavor becomes sweeter. The taste depends on the soil. If it is volcanic, there will be some shades if mineral, will come out different. Something that grows out of the ground, absorbs everything - from above and from below. In the same way, for example, with tomatoes - one thing when they grow up in the south, and another thing - you on the balcony.
About ideal conditions, sea buckthorn and coffee issues
If the farmer was lucky with the soil and location, then begins the process of growing. Imagine that all is well: excellent soil, trees planted, as it should, not attacked by rust bug, fell right amount of rain, the harvest is ripe.
Coffee problems
- Coffee berry grows like a sea-buckthorn - it's all "pasted" to the branch - and it is very inconvenient to collect.
- It grows high and hilly terrain, making it impossible to adjust the machine to quickly and easily collect, such as collect Robusta or Arabica from cheap lowlands.
- On the same branch Arabica matures often out of sync, as, for example, raspberry or currant when a branch is simultaneously green, red, red and green berries. Not very Radzivil farmer or collector collects everything. In this case, it turns out poor-quality coffee. Here is a good example - let's say you order in a restaurant serving raspberries, and you bring a bowl with sticks, rotten, green, underripe, ripe, slightly ripe berries. Of course, you do come back, because everything is obvious. Coffee, we often get in finished form, so have no idea what's in it really.
- Collectors pay for the weight, and the salary they miserable. Now imagine that they indicate that they want only red berries, for kilogram they will spend their afternoon. Good suppliers are paying more garbage, and then he begins to try to collect only the ripe berries.
On the processing of coffee beans
Arabica is very difficult to collect - it is hellish work. After collecting the coffee moved 2 times, to be sure of all sort. Thereafter, it is treated as ultimately need not berries and seed.
There are several types. If next to a farm a lot of water, the most commonly used method for processing washed. There is a dry process (original treatment) - berry dried peel begins fermentation process (i.e., decay) after which peel easily coming off from the grains. It is important that nasty outside, but in any case did not affect the grain, so you need to check every hour, what happens to the grain. If it perefermentirovat, taste will be the other.
Sometimes we feel that with coffee "that something is not right." A specialist can determine the cause once that it was "something-not-what" and may be the result perefermentatsii when putrefaction reached the grain.
About grain drying, transport and results
After peeling the grain must be dry, because it is not yet ready for transport. You can dry it in different ways: on the floor, under the shade, without a shadow on sackcloth. From the drying process depends very much. It must constantly turn, should follow him. If the bright sun or rain - it is necessary to cover the seed.
Spoil the coffee at each of the stages - in the course of processing and transportation cooking roaster. All this work, which is associated with the cultivation of coffee, can be spoiled at any stage.
On the palate, its losses and composition
In the original product can only be something to take away. Each process is something taken away. Perefermentirovali - robbed, overcooked - taken away. In no way coffee is not got nothing to add, you can only spoil it. If the people on each chain, in which we are going to understand their responsibility and try to preserve the taste, then all will be well. As soon as it begins: "I am a magician, now I'm here to do something," - we often get spoiled grain.
About Transportation
Processed, graded by size, density and other grains to dry (it is 10-12% humidity), and then it is important to pack. Cheap grain packed in jute bags. What's the problem jute bag? He passes through it. If the container grain (it is basically all the sea floats) will put the top deck, salt water, the wind will get there - no this is not followed. Therefore expensive grain is packed either in a vacuum or in a bag Grain-pro. This bag jute outside, but inside is laid special polyethylene (code name). In this state, it is much longer retains its original flavor.
On expiry
It is well known that 28-30 days after roasting taste begins to lose, and quite sharply, and then rolled up absolutely nothing. And there was no point as dance, so try to get in the end, all softened. Therefore, only fresh harvest and only fresh roasting.
About coffee constants
Fresh harvest, fresh roasting - these are constants, which we market is a little bit taught to this people have quietly come to understand that it is important, and morally agree. And when they see a package that is browned six months or a year ago, they already understand that they will not pay money for it ... at least long. It is also important: we all should have its own price. If it's cheap green coffee, somehow collected, processed, poorly-done, and it should be cheap. The more people who know these banal truth, the better. Then they stop paying huge amounts of money in a very strange quality product.
Tips and abstracts fromDouble B
- Overdose of coffee is good to shoot a glass of wine, it neutralizes the excitement.
- Good taste of the drink interrupts bread. To enjoy a few cups of coffee of different varieties, you can eat a small piece. So doing, for example, kapingah - professional "look" coffee where evaluated different varieties and types of roasting.
- Looks like a good coffee drink - depending on the method of feeding is revealed in all the versatility of taste.
- Alternative coffee is very far from multilayer mixtures with cream, several kinds of toppings and spoons of sugar.
- To truly love coffee, you should be ready to listen to new information and trying new tastes, and not to consider themselves superekspertom, having some knowledge.
Methods for infusion
There are two main types - Espresso bar and Slow bar. The first method gives us what we used to drink in coffee shops and restaurants, and the second relates to alternative, manual brewing methods. Slow bar includes aeropress, kemeks and hario. The devices differ not only in appearance but also brewing principle, interaction with water.
Hario (from Hario, brand, producing a device called purover) and kemeks - Japanese brewing method in which coffee is passed through a dense filter and get clean uniform. But our attention was drawn the aeropress, revealing the taste of the drink in an unusual way.
The principle of the brewing comments champion latte-art Victoria Kashirtseva:
Aeropress. In this method of brewing obtained dense, bright. Now I'll make you a Kenya Kapsokisio AB, and through this process, it will be revealed as listed on the label: fruit, acidity - it will all be in these two hundred milliliters.
As he sealed: there are two flasks. In the bulb creates a vacuum pressure, and coffee squeezed it through the air, so it is called "aeropress". Has a bottom cover holes and filter paper which is wetted and the particles does not pass coffee. But it is thin, so not all particles are retained, and some of them are held in coffee. Therefore coffee turns unclear how compote. This is one of the easiest ways to brew coffee: everything here is pretty simple and fast. (Stirred coffee) We give the coffee come into contact with water. Cover with a lid, wait for 50 seconds and presses. He is very different from the rest of the way, then a completely different principle. Someone aeropress compares with an espresso machine, because it also uses pressure. Only here, naturally, it is much smaller, it is a manual method. (Presses) It seems that I am very hard pressed, but in fact only slightly further he falls. It turns quickly and very tasty: whatever coffee you brewed it does not, you get a very cool. Aeropress for those who prefer the taste of the coffee. Everything is very quick and easy to clean, so it is convenient to use at home. Coffee turns svetlenky, juicy taste, beverage.
And complex tulip from her.