First among equals - Jicky by Guerlain. In 1889, Aimé Guerlain perfume in a coup at the time, to create a fragrance not only from the usual natural ingredients, but received shortly before the synthetic - zibet and coumarin. Opening with lemon, bergamot, mandarin and lavender Jicky develops the theme of heart notes of coumarin, rosemary and basil, completed the same composition zibet resin opoponaks, tonka bean and sandalwood. It was the first perfume unisex, in the old-fashioned sense of the word, of course. The aroma is not clung to everyone, regardless of gender, just on women's and men's skin he sounded quite differently.
Female floral-oriental fragrance L'Origan by Coty was created in 1905 by perfumer François Coty. Its sensual base notes of incense, musk, sandalwood, vanilla, cedar and coumarin keep in my heart luxurious jasmine flowers, violet, rose, ylang-ylang and orange colors in the upper sheet music can be heard as coriander and peach, pepper, bergamot and orange Corsican . It was a completely new style of perfumery - floral-oriental.
The legendary "Empress Bouquet", more known to us under the name "Red Moscow", was created in this style. It also can call their great predecessor Oskar de la Renta, Dior Poison, Cacharel Loulou. From this has become a classic, but once innovative fragrance, traces its origins and contemporary favorite of many women - Armani Code for Women.
"Crazy Twenties" demanded its flavor. Women hair cut hair, shortened skirts, lipstick and confident fingers caught in long elegant cigarette holders with cigarette smoking. Tabac Blonde by Caron and today remains as a rare, exotic and unique, like a Hollywood actress of those years on the streets today. Few of the perfumers went by Ernest Daltroffa, created in 1919, this rich floral-oriental fragrance for tart leather-based tobacco.
Religious Chanel №5, by Ernest Beaux in 1921, needs no introduction. Difficult to live on the same planet with them and do not know about their existence. Former perfumer Russian royal court, Bo experimented with synthetic floral scents - aldehydes and created several fragrances based on them. Brilliant Coco Chanel chose one of them, and the whole world for many years had gone mad from the "twinkling of aldehydes", neroli, bergamot, lemon and ylang-ylang in the top notes, the root of violet, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose and iris in the heart and amber , patchouli, civet, sandalwood, vetiver, oak moss and musk in the base. With this brilliant flavor were born offspring of the great perfumers such as Hermès Calèche, Madame Rochas and Paco Rabanne Calandre.
Nephew Aimé Guerlain, Jacques Guerlain in 1925, creates a radiant Shalimar by Guerlain. Taking the classic citrus cologne, fashionable in the 19th century, he supplemented it so complex and rich oriental accord of musk, tonka bean, amber and vanilla, which turned out quite avant-garde and unique aroma. The creator of Chanel №5 Ernest Bo gave his colleague on this matter following compliment: "If I had used as much vanilla, I would have left only a vanilla cream, and Jacques Guerlain created Shalimar! ". This fragrance, remained unique, spawned many successful arrangements. These include Must de Cartier, Casmir by Chopard, Angel by Thierry Mugler and Chanel Allure.
French perfumer Female Patou in 1929, in the midst of the Great Depression, to create a fragrance that proves that there is "a feast during the plague" when it comes to art. He writes with frivolous spirits called Joy - "joy." Strong emphasis of this fragrance is based on the most expensive flower oils Bulgarian and May rose and jasmine with flower plantations Grasse. And if that was not enough gold in many ways, the liquid was made in no less valuable bottle from a single piece of natural crystal. Joy and perhaps were not as innovative as their predecessors, nevertheless they deserve a place in history, thanks to its life-affirming positions.
Vent Vert by Balmain three earned their place in the top ten flavors century. They were the first of the famous flavors were the creation of the perfumer-woman. Germain Soulier in 1945 creates this like a gust of spring wind fragrance perfumes brought in the fashion of green notes - this is the second merit of these great spirits, as their successors will be loved by many Chanel No19, Aliage from Estée Lauder and Un Jardin en Méditerranée by Hermès. Finally, it Vent Vert inspired perfumers to create the following in the top ten perfume.
Miss Dior - not only the brainchild of two perfumers Jean Carles and your fields, but also the fruit of love between two flavors - the "green» Vent Vert by Balmain and chypre Chypre by Coty. According to legend, a new flavor was not so familiar, that every one familiar to the great couturier, which he offered to inhale these spirits, they were shocked. Negative feedback does not stop Dior. In February 1947, the visitors of his show a wave of gentle, infinitely sensual feminine spring and exquisite flavor. Complex and harmonious Miss Dior found its continuation in the Magie Noire by Lancôme, Intimate by Revlon and Givenchy III.
Youth Dew by Estee Lauder would not have been mentioned in this list, if they were only the first American perfume created in the XX century. Do not they have taken their place, and due to the fact that it was they were honored to be the first fragrance that it became possible to use during the day, not only in the evening, before going to the light. No, in the top ten this perfume because of its rich dark baroque oriental notes. Their sound can be tracked and Dioressence from Christian Dior, Coco Chanel in and Black Cashmere by Donna Karan. It is said that she spoke of Estee Lauder brilliant Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, as an «Youth Dew with a brush."
As an exception allowed to occupy one seat to two flavors and Monsieur de Givenchy Eau de Vetiver as from Givenchy. These first men's fragrances recently noted its fiftieth anniversary, and as you know it's for real men age heyday. And these two brothers aristocrat - another proof.