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Invincible and legendary "New Dawn"
HistoryRussian spirits inextricably linked with the fate of the Moscow factory "New Dawn". This enterprise was discovered almost 150 years ago - the first Frenchman Henri Brocard started production of soap. Business went, and in 1870 appeared on the shelves instantly gained popularity brokarovskie colognes. The first legendary Russian ladies perfume became "The Persian lilac" - their fragrance, Moscow and St. Petersburg.
Factory Brocard opened shops and became the supplier of the imperial court and turned into an empire of flavors. To produce the firstRussian spirits were used as purchased in the same French ingredients and essences and extracts own making. To this day a working archive of M. Brocard stored at the factory and is a good service is not the first generation of perfumers.
After the October Revolution, the brainchild of Henri Brocard was nationalized and renamed the State soap factory - in those grim years of the struggle for hygiene worried about much more than ephemeral value of high perfumery. However, soap-lucky with the Director - Komsomolets A. Zvezdov decided it was wrong to go to waste vast reserves brokarovskogo expensive raw materials and bottles and hired a French perfumer Michel Augusta sympathized with the ideals of the revolution, resumed production of Russian, or rather Soviet spirits. The chiefs have approved the proposed name of the factory - "New Dawn". Monsieur Michel creatively ordered brokarovskim heritage: he was not only his own compositions for the perfume, but also gave a second life to the formulas, surviving from tsarist times. So, it is absolutely legendaryRussian spirits "Red Moscow" is a scent invented by Henri Brocard for Alix Romanova, wife of the last emperor, and was originally called "My favorite bouquet Empress."
Fragrant glorious history book "New Dawn" boasts many pages. Prolific factory, in fact not knowing the competition regularly indulged inhabitants of the country of the Soviets novelties, and, in addition, has won international recognition. SuchRussian spiritsAs "Lights of Moscow", "Fouette", "Scythian Gold", "Manon", "Pearl," "Stone Flower" is remembered today by many. Traditional, specialty flavors "New Dawn" - a classic good-quality perfumes mainly floral direction, with wood and - rarely - amber-oriental notes.
Politics was the principal factory - in the production ofRussian spirits to be used mainly Soviet raw materials produced from native plants in the USSR or develop domestic chemists. This is the main measure and distinguished face products. Leading "nose" in the heyday of the factory was Pavel Ivanov, who is considered one of the best perfumers of the Soviet school.
Perestroika transformations are not passed "New Dawn" - the factory was going through hard times. However, the flagship of the Russian perfumery persevered, and his third birth again, not without the help of the French. Thanks to the financial participation of investors in Paris Moscow factory, since 2004 known as Nouvelle Etoile, now produces several dozenRussian spirits. Among them how long their favorite works and new items developed with the direct participation of the French side - "White tea", "The Beauty of the night", "Follow me." In the gallery of the new perfume classics can be included suchRussian spiritsAs "the Kuznetsk bridge", "Sweet" and "Shalunya." A distinctive feature of modern Russian spirits Nouvelle Etoile - a variety of choices at reasonable prices.
The Discreet Charm "Angelika Varum"
Concern "Kalina" (former "Ural Gems") - another veteran player of domestic perfume market. In absolute terms, it could be called the second most important, but unfortunately the last few years of perfumery was not a priority for the "Kalina".
Although in the late 90's in the range of products the company was about 20 colognes, perfumes and perfume waters. Moreover, it is "Kalina" organized sensational contest for the best male and female fragrance, the "Crystal bouquet", intending to release odors winners under its own brand. But this effort ended sadly - French supplier summed factory huge losses swayed project.
It is curious that in his time the factory in Ekaterinburg has grown on the basis of the evacuated during World War II division "New Dawn". Today it is a diversified enterprise with foreign capital, which produces a huge range of products and home care.
Found in this variety, and aRussian spirits - Namely, "Kalina" produces fragrance "Angelika Varum" for many years not to lose popularity, and is undoubtedly the most successful Russian "Star" perfume. This delicate floral-fruity fragrance with notes of green rose, lily of the valley, lilac and Tibetan musk. He has continued - less well-known, but also a good powdery-eastRussian spirits "Angelika Varum Heart note", catchy thanks Flair iris and sandalwood.
Best perfume experiment "Kalina" were chypre-spetsievye evening perfume "Night rain" - alas, today they are not commercially available, the scent can be found only among collectors, as well as watery sea song "Blue Lagoon". But the concern produces the most famous and accessible Russian children's spirits - "Little Fairy". It's easy for beginners fashionistas perfume, unobtrusive and refreshing finale orange, rose and vanilla.
Russian perfume - cosmetic networks
Network cosmetic company Faberlic and Mirra Lux become in recent years a significant force in the marketRussian spirits. Do yourself a reputation as an innovative cosmetics company Faberlic oxygen supplied to the well-known name in the world, having started cooperation with French perfumer Pierre Bourdon, author of such popular songs as Davidoff Cool Water, Escada Magnetism, Dior Dolce Vita. Strictly speaking, it is unclear whether it is possible to call spirits Faberlic Russian - they are created by a Frenchman in France from the French material. However, it is the Russian company briefs job to M. Bourdon and sells a result of his work to Russians, so production is focused primarily on them.
Today in stockRussian spirits Faberlic - three main series of flavors (youth collection, "Fragrance of Travel" and an exclusive collection), as well as fruit spirits You Nova Dream. As part of each series are presented perfume to suit different tastes - from green-wood to spicy spetsievyh.
Exclusive collection Faberlic can be called an attempt to create the first Russian selective - unique spirits for connoisseurs and collectors. It's a pretty interesting project that deserves the attention of all the fans of perfume. It is important that, despite the valuable recipes, perfumes Faberlic are relatively inexpensive - the average price of "exclusive" about $ 20 a bottle, while usually selective fragrances are estimated from $ 70 for 50 ml.
Company "Mirra Lux" was fortunate to work with one of the best local perfumers "old school" - Alla Belfer. She passed away about a year ago. It Alla Belfer has created the most successful perfumes of the cage "Mira", "Veil", "Shadow", "№7", "Decadence", and unfortunately has not produced perfume "Nema-I" (a unique wood-tea and incense composition), with a rightfully can be named among the bestRussian spirits recent decades. Russian spirits Alla Belfer for "Mira" - is the embodiment of the classical traditions of perfumery, cleverly using modern trends and perform its main task - to make a woman a mysterious and coveted by means of flavor.
According to independent experts, on the Russian perfume market there are about two dozen players, and the share of domestic sales of scented products is about 20% of the total. Consumers vote with their noses - worthy samplesRussian spirits quickly becoming known even in narrow circles of perfume fans. But the reality is that the game of perfume - a pretty expensive business, and you can deal with it in the first place, being a devout fan of odors, and secondly, not expecting instant enrichment. That is why the domestic market is not perfume demostriruet any tangible bursts of activity.
Although from time to time there is something worthwhile: for example, the company "Prestige Perfume" makes the first Russian perfume with pheromones (perfumes with pheromones for women's magazine JustLady described in detail in the article: "Perfume with pheromones Go to smell"), and the manufacturer natural cosmetics Green Mama a few years ago launched an ambitious project Alisia Milor. These monoaromaty, had time to become deservedly popular, is not produced, according to some, because of problems with raw material suppliers. However, fansRussian spirits hope for the best and expect that they will not only return the favorite smells, but also surprise novelties.
Olga mob
Women's magazine JustLady