When in January Raf Simons showed his second haute couture collection at the post of creative director of Dior, part of the fashion critics began to murmur. Like, well, what is it, what a second-rate Dior, Christian turning in his grave, or where he is there now! Some critics, on the other hand, noticed that the work of Simons in high fashion - pretty subtle quoting the founder of the brand. Yes, albeit somewhat vague, and with an emphasis of Rafa, but it seems he does not have to "spoof" the master and forget about the fact that he himself - the designer, not a restorer.
Dior haute couture spring-summer 2013
In late February, the effect of Unexploded Bomb produced the first ready-to-wear collection in the Alexander Wang Balenciaga, who in November remained without Nicolas Ghesquière at the helm. First, many have experienced because of his care. Still, it is 15 years from the ashes of recreated heritage Spaniard Cristobal Balenciaga. Thought indispensable Gesker. His work on the general office of the fashion house was so fundamental that at times it seemed that there was no skilled Spaniard. And the name of the brand is increasingly associated with the name of Nicolas Ghesquière. After his departure, it is very young Wong faced a hard job: to resurrect the dead, do not forget about the living and insert a word from him. Characteristic of his early desire to be a good student who has learned the formula by heart, made him too cautious to create a collection, repeating the authors of "books" word for word, only a little embellishment. Rages in anticipation of showing emotions critics and failed to boil over.
Balenciaga ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2013/14
But a few days later that awkward confusion flat, which froze criticism after the show Balenciaga, if received multiple defibrillator. The reason for this was a provocative collection of Saint Laurent Hedi Slimane. Here it is for grunge, Nirvana, puberty and torn in a respectable Saint Laurent with its historically elegant charm and charisma to Slimane with all circuits lowered dogs. "As long as young blood will spoil names immortal couturier? "- Had suddenly cried all.
Saint Laurent pret-a-porter autumn-winter 2013/14
The whole story with fashion houses, their founders and their successors personally I'm starting to seem false from the moment when the founder dies. Although Gabrielle Chanel herself before her own death said: "Let the myth of me dies. I wish him a happy future! "- This phrase it, in my opinion, has got the wrong interpretation. All her life she struggled with the inconvenience and fashion snobbery. And everything that she needed - her struggle to not sunk into oblivion together with her departure. Surely a "myth" does not imply she labels with your own name for the fabulous money on things that have nothing to do with its principles of fashion.
Although dinosaur fashion industry Lagerfeld successfully replaces it in the post and its clones pearls, famous tweed jackets and other garments from the collection of the collection, he is master of tricks, manages might as well replace the myth, for which so sick soul itself Chanel . Remember even this whole last year's manic obsession with Charles Middle Ages with all the hoops, robes and full sleeves. Yes, it's amazing, it's brilliant, it's incredibly beautiful, but it's not Chanel.
Chanel Coco Chanel Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel
Incomprehensible of all, why invite a talented designer to the position of creative director at brand with tradition, if his talent and ideological impulses resonate with these traditions. As an example, in the case of Slimane with Saint Laurent. I see this as just a commercial parasitism owners fashion houses. If the label with a false name, you can earn good, then why not? In this sense, the difference between Chinese, sewing forgery in the cellars, and 100-year-old studio in the center of the fashion capitals only in price and quality materials. Even high-quality copying the style of the founder of the brand (like the fact that now there are, for example, at Alexander McQueen c Sarah Burton) - it's like an original painting of Dali and his beautiful reproduction. Transfer the case to an inheritance, as it happened in Versace, where creative director after the death of his brother became his muse as Donatella Versace - perhaps the most honest option, albeit largely and very risky.
In good, left dead couturier heritage over time, of course, need to evolve, to listen to the demands of modernity, and so, if we did not get to leave Balenciaga balensiagovo and Saint-Laurent Saint-Laurent. But in fact, it looks like some kind of tap-hole-enkoy: leap forward, two steps back. This is hell, just spoiled a time machine, because of which can be somewhere for a long time to get stuck or were in the past, someone to shovel the myths in an alternate reality, accidentally broke the wings of a butterfly. Why?
Many might argue, they say, work on the post of creative director at someone else's house - it's a great opportunity to gain experience of young designers. The same Yves Saint Laurent once occupied this post in Dior. However, it is very long and, incidentally, also inherited (Christian Dior himself requested that his case was continued to Saint-Laurent). But all this talk in favor of laziness and convenience. Neither Chanel nor Dior did not have such opportunities. They took no ability to forge someone's handwriting, they invented it themselves. Because somehow especially to the point today sounds once said personal assistant to Christian Dior's phrase: "If Dior had lived, fashion would not have been in such a sorry state in which it is now." And because so happy that so many times refused the investment in own brand Nicolas Ghesquière left Balenciaga and finally open fashion house named after himself.